Mezarje Šehitluci, Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Since visiting Sarajevo back in 2015, Mostar has been on my list of cities to visit. There are some 114 cemeteries listed in the area. Not surprising, really, given the devastating loss of life during the Bosnian War.

Perhaps the most visited is Mezarje Šehitluci, the Martyrs’ Cemetery, given its central location right across from the Museum of War and Genocide Victims 1992–1995. Šehitluci comes from šehid (martyr). A šehitluci is therefore a burial place associated with people regarded as martyrs, particularly those who died defending their community.

“Graves in Šehitluci cemetery overlooking a street in Mostar, with white Muslim gravestones in the foreground and the Museum of War and Genocide Victims 1992–1995 in a historic building across the street.”

Here, dates weren’t an issue. So many young people died in 1992. So many.

Kemal Toporan, son of Ibro Toporan, born 3 August 1964 in Nevesinje. The Bosnian Book of the Dead records him as a Bosniak soldier in the ARBiH who died 21 January 1993 in Mostar, aged 28.

A Muslim cemetery in Mostar with white stone graves and tall, pointed headstones. In the foreground is the grave of Kemal Toporan (1964–21 January 1993), with his photograph on the headstone. Other graves are visible behind him.

Memli’s headstone is dedicated by his father Safet, mother Vahida, and sister Adna, more personal than militaristic. He was 21 when he died.

Close-up of a white, ornate Muslim gravestone bearing a photograph of a young man. The inscription reads “Memlić Adnan, 29.08.1972 – 03.01.1993”, followed by a message from his father, mother, and sister. A crescent-and-star symbol appears near the top.

The juxtaposition of the older-style nišani (Muslim gravestones), with the characteristic tall, narrow form and pointed/rounded top and the more modern shorter, curved headstones is interesting.

“A white marble grave monument for Mirzo Bratić (1955–1993), with a curved decorative design, crescent-and-star symbol, and portrait photograph, surrounded by tall upright Muslim gravestones.”

The cemetery represents two periods of history.

According to the historical tradition documented about the cemetery, approximately 400 defenders of Mostar were killed during the Venetian attack on the city in 1717. Their bodies were brought back to Mostar and buried at this site. This is said to be the origin of the name Šehitluci.

There are 322 people buried there from the 1992–95 period, according to a published compilation of the burials. Among them are prominent figures from the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina, including General Arif Pašalić and Midhat Hujdur Hujka, who is regarded as one of the heroes of the Bosnian war.

“White marble Muslim grave monument for Emir Nušić, marked ‘El Fatiha!’ and decorated with a portrait photograph, surrounded by traditional upright nišan gravestones.”

While many fighters are buried there, there are also civilians. Because other cemeteries were inaccessible during the fighting and shelling, some Serb and Croat members of the ARBiH (The Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina) were also buried there.

“White Muslim gravestones in Šehitluci cemetery in Mostar, with a historic mosque featuring several domes and a tall stone minaret behind them, and a steep mountain visible to the right.”