Who’s to blame in Gozo

Fort Chambray Gozo Malta

Do I need to drag myself, kicking and screaming, into the 21st century, or can I stay in my self-enforced state of denial, at odds with planners everywhere? I’m all for progress but I’m also for preserving the past. I detest new developments and yet I have enough sense to know that when my building was built in 1896 it was new to someone, just as the newly built apartment blocks behind me will be old to someone in 100 years (if they last that long). Would I rather see a historic city or town alive or dead? Alive, of course. Would I rather see buildings still in use than abandoned to rats and litter? Of course, I would. So why then is the Fort Chambray development in Gozo coming between me and my sleep?

Fort Chambray Gozo Malta

That building you see in the background is the original barracks built in the mid-eighteenth century Gozo. The two on either side, the ‘tastefully’ designed new development. In its heyday, the original fort housed 250 soldiers and a small hospital. It grew in size during the Crimean War and in its latter years was both a civilian mental hospital and a leprosy unit. All a far cry from this recent development which oozes money; the views alone are worth a king’s ransom.

Fort Chambray Gozo MaltaFort Chambray Gozo Malta

Outside the actual fort itself, remnants of the old cemetery can still be seen. The remains were removed in 1991 and reburied elsewhere. Yet in the base of the crumbling walls, some of the original headstones shine brightly in the winter sun.  We climbed down and waded through thick bush and marshy ground for a closer look. A handful of stones marked each one of the four walls. The inscriptions dated from 1895 and 1898, each one more poignant than the last. Lance Corporals, their wives, and their children, immortalised in stone. Above these walls, inside the Fort, the development nears conclusion. Coffee-tabled balconies, curtained windows, and the occasional car testify that someone was home. But for all this progress, walls have been destroyed. The original entrance gate has been closed off and a new imitation built. One could argue that it has been designed sympathetically. The colours, the shapes, all blend in. But sitting as this new-build does on history, with so much of the original barracks still standing, I have to wonder why there couldn’t have been a little more restoration and a little less renovation.

Fort Chambray Gozo Malta

Maybe it’s me. Maybe I simply need to get with the programme. Perhaps if I had a couple of million to spare, I’d be happy to spend my evenings looking out over the Maltese Archipelago, my view unobscured. Maybe I should start looking to the future instead of clinging to the past. Maybe…maybe not.


  • On the basis of your photos I agree with your thoughts Mary. I suspect that the situation is as follows……….the prime motive for the developer of the scheme is to make money (thats how the world goes round)……….history is an expensive add on for him, he adds it when forced to or where he believes it will ‘add’ to the attraction (and then hopefully the profits) of the scheme.
    The developer does not have it all his own way………..in this case I would think that the public control of this development will be the Maltese planning department, who I can imagine will be very proud of this development……….maybe……in real life the developers employ smarter planners than the public officers………guys who can successfully argue the developers’ case, the developer (certainly for a development of this value) will have ensured ( I won’t go into those dark arts) that they have support of the local politicians……..the result is that the mediterranean coastline gets another peice of pure disneyland ………..do the occupants of these new apartments really believe that their new rooms were previously occupied by people dying of leprosy……….are they bothered?………..should we be bothered?
    I think we should, such developments devalue and debase the original historic construction be it a fort, a village or a town…………it would have been better to have had an honest modern design that through contrast with the original construction would allow us to both understand and enjoy the story of a place instead of muddling it in the way they have done here………..There is a saying that I like that is so true today – ‘society gets the architecture it deserves’……….perhaps the recession will make us try a bit harder.

    All that and I didn’t mention the bit that most touched me, those little gravestones each with a tale to tell, slowly being overpowered by modern mans indifference.

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